Thursday, May 25, 2023

Day 20: Guymon, OK to Liberal, KS

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/122311093

Today's Ride

The Stats 

(A mere) 46 miles (including a lunch stop detour in Liberal, KS)
(A mere) 469 ft. of climbing, though this was slightly more than yesterday
Milestones: Crossed another state line!
Challenges: How not to drink too much beer before dinner given how early we finished our ride!

Miles Competed: 1,333
Miles to Go: 2,063
States Visited: 6 of 15
Feet Climbed: 50,196



The Ride

Flouting the forecast of early storms, the sun was shining and the air was crisp. The road was flat and the shoulder wide. The directions simple: Leave hotel. Go right on route 54. Turn right on Yellow Brick Road. It was an easy 46 miles, including the "long" option to Dorothy's House!

The first 20 miles or so were a breeze, oddly peaceful. While unremarkable in isolation, I continued to remark (to myself, and now to Siri) about the remarkably changing palette of the landscape, from sea blue, to red rocks, to golden wheat, and now to verdant green grass (though it's possible we're bypassing the "purple mountains' majesty"!). Such are the things you notice and think about when you have miles, and hours, to contemplate them! Also, did you know that if you "mooooooo" at cows they'll look up at you and stare you down, even if you interrupt their grazing? Like I said, the things you learn...
Panhandle skyscrapers?
Outdoor sculpture garden?
Reminded me of a circus tent...but could've been a modern sculpture at the Met!

Our one and only SAG of the day was in Hooker, OK. Needless to say, they've made a cottage industry around the name. Apart from the standard kitsch, Nancy at the Chamber of Commerce was kind enough to share stories about the "sweat equity" quilt she was making for a friend at the grocery store who had kindly donated surplus produce to her for chicken feed. She was a long time elementary school teacher who was happy to have her photograph taken with me! And the local town sign made for a decent lean photo!

Nancy kindly obliged with a selfie!


Shortly after Hooker, we crossed another state line into Kansas. It was my second of three "new" states on this trip. Oklahoma was the first, then Kansas, and Missouri will be the last (no, I've never been to St. Louis). So milestones all around!

We also had time for a great lunch at the Brick House BBQ & Brew, owned by Liberal, KS natives who moved to Colorado for a while but returned to Liberal and recently opened this place. Despite a busy lunch crowd, they welcomed us and our bikes on the patio as several riders straggled in after me. Glad it was just a mile from the hotel!
Picking the local lunch spot has become a favorite sport!
View from our lunch spot!

Liberal, Kansas

Liberal, Kansas (I'll spare you the "isn't it ironic" or oxymoronic political comments) greeted us as the grandest metropolis we've seen since Santa Fe. One of the Brits commented that it was the first "suburban" area we've been to, as there were houses adjacent to houses, with yards and dogs, but I was hard-pressed to identify what "urbanity" it was the "sub" of...so I'll just go with small town that's bigger than the last small town we visited. They identify as part of the Panhandle community, and seem to identify more with the OK and TX towns we recently visited than those in other parts of the state that await us. 

Given the short mileage, we had time to "follow the yellow brick road" to Dorothy's House and tour the Mid-America Air Museum. Clearly the hot spots in Liberal! (To explain my obsession with this, see Notes about the Wizard of Oz below.) While the display itself is hokey, the story behind its creation is heart-warming and well-intentioned. 

"Dorothy"?


Follow the yellow brick road? Sort of? 

Ironically founded by Max Zimmerman, my nephew's namesake (no connection suspected)!

The Mid-America Air Museum surprised on the upside. It's a gem of a display of aircraft, both military and civilian, and they even had space to store our bikes while we visited! Until today, didn't realize that one of our group designs the wings for Airbus and another had been a member of the RAF! They had lots of knowledge to share. 


Gene, a "Sweet Petunia" (meant in the nicest way!)
After dinner at Vargas Bar & Grill (conveniently located next to our hotel), I had the pleasure of chatting with Randy, who was born and raised in Liberal, and his wife Marti, who is originally from Mexico. They had noticed our 20-something group dining in the back room and asked if we were biking from Boston. I promptly corrected this notion, and let him know that we were biking TO Boston, to which he responded, "Damn!" (each and every one of these reactions has been priceless!). He told me about his Trek bike which he bought for $300 but hasn't ridden since he bought it 15 years ago, claiming he couldn't ride it even across the street. I tried to convince him he could, just one pedal stroke at a time! He also regaled me with stories of how he used his ice skating prowess (they used to have a skating rink here!) to court women in high school, to the envy of his peers...but probably best not to go into details! 

Marti and Randy, who enjoyed our Wizard of Oz rendition!

Randy was well acquainted with the owners of the Brick House BBQ & Grill, where we lunched. I told him a bunch of lycra-clad bikers (and their bikes!) were graciously hosted and had delicious food, so thanks to the owners, and to Casey who put up with us! 

Soundtracks of the Day

Rejecting the obvious showtune choice ("Oklahoma"), the Route Rap Rappers started the day with a verse of "Never Been To Spain" by Three Dog Night, which seemed more apt for the journey, given our recent traverses from state to state:

"Well I've never been to heaven, 
But I been to Oklahoma,
Oh, they tell me I was born there, 
But I really don't remember,
In Oklahoma,
Not Arizona,
What does it matter? 
What does it matter?"

At the SAG, we were "Off to see the wizard," complete with skipping arm in arm. It was classic. If you must, you can find it on Facebook.

A Note About the Wizard of Oz

Ok, so the Dorothy's House attraction wasn't her real house, and Dorothy wasn't a real person. And objectively, it was a bit lame. But Dorothy and the Wizard of Oz inspired my day, so much so that at the first (and only) SAG of the day the Route Rap Rappers did a particularly animated rendition of "We're Off to See the Wizard," which Paula confirmed no one had ever done before on tour (which was shocking to me, given how obvious it was!). You can see it here.

More subjectively, I recall the movie being a favorite of my dad's (rivalled only by Casablanca and the African Queen), and remember watching it many times during childhood and since, including the first time when the flying monkeys caused great fear and tears. For some reason, my dad had a particular affinity for the Cowardly Lion, and Burt Laar who played him. Perhaps it is why we had lots of lion paraphernalia and photos around the house and to this day associate him with lions. 
Not particularly authentic, but it's the thought that counts!

The story of the movie is one of longing and hopes and dreams and making wishes come true. It is also a story of going to another place only to learn to appreciate and long for what you have at home. I'll save more of this for my "Rest Day Reflections" but I think there's a metaphor for this trip lurking somewhere within that movie!

I also must give a shoutout to my sister, Jennifer Zimmerman (nee Harris). She played the coroner in a Wantagh High School production of the Wizard of Oz (circa 1979-80?). I did a recording of her part as a tribute to her, and in appreciation of her support and cheerleading of my crazy endeavor. And because she's my best and only schvester, who I love more than I can possibly express, and because it would make our parents, to whom I have dedicated this ride, so happy that this is so. 

While I'll spare you the audio, the verse goes: 
"As coroner, I must aver,
I thoroughly examined her,
And she's not only merely dead,
She's really most sincerely dead."

Then the munchkins rejoice and all is happy in the Land of Oz. And so it was a happy day!

Employee(s) of the Day

The day started off on a good note. Besides the fact that it was not thunderstorming or even raining, we had the option of "made to order" eggs (real, not powdered!) for breakfast. It's amazing how you come to appreciate the small things after a few weeks on the road. Mayra at the Best Western in Guymon expertly and graciously made whatever we wanted. What a treat, so thank you, Mayra!

And see above, for praise for Casey our fabulous server at lunch, and the whole gang at Vargas, who catered to the group of us for dinner!

Forecasts once again tomorrow threaten morning storms. May they be as wrong tomorrow as they were today!

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