Day 22: Dodge City to Great Bend, KS

 https://give.michaeljfox.org/barbarasbigride

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/122573771

Today's Ride

The Stats

87 miles

646 ft. climbed

Milestones (sort of): Reached the halfway point between NY and San Francisco, but since we're going from LA to Boston that's not really a relevant stat...though we're getting close!

Challenges: W-I-N-D!

Miles Completed: 1,504

Miles to Go: 1,892

States Visited: 6 of 15 (we're in Kansas for a while!)

Feet Climbed: 52,023

The Ride

Today felt a bit like groundhog day. Started out from Dodge City ("getting out of Dodge!") with a semi-headwind, off the front quarter (the sailors would think of this as a "close reach"), so it was a bit of a slog for the first 30-40 miles. Fortunately, a combination of road curves and a slight wind shift put it more at our backs for most of the last 50 miles or so, much like it did yesterday.

But much as it felt familiar, there's always something new to look at, if you just take the time to notice. (I saw several red-winged blackbirds that I wasn't quick enough to photograph, but appreciated their beauty and odd contrast with the landscape, given that most animals try to blend in!)

Not sure what this was all about, but seemed worth stopping for a pic!

Wonder if they found anything?

Perhaps I should stick around?

Still mesmerized by these windmills. There was even a sign for "scenic lookout" that appeared to look at nothing other than the wind turbines!

A striking structure

The brown behind the fences are cattle.

Much as I've tried to avoid divisive politics, I couldn't help but notice a few (though fewer than I might've thought) signs reminding me of the country's political divide, including some I can't quite get out of my mind. I've purposefully not engaged in any political discussions with the locals (or anyone, for that matter). 

This one stuck with me.
Another said "Smile. Your mom chose life."

One thing I began to notice was the cadence of the town-to-town skyline. For example, while touring the countryside of Italy, you know when you've arrived in a new town when there's a new duomo (church), gelateria (ice cream store), and multiple ristorantes and cafes. In Kansas, the skyline is syncopated with grain silos and water towers bearing the town's name (and sometimes the name of the local sports team), and of course a sign announcing where you’ve arrived.

[An aside: These water towers always evoke memories circa 1980-81 on a double date with Ilona, my best friend from high school, when somehow we were dumb and stupid enough to be convinced to climb up some water tower in Long Island. Details are fuzzy, but Ilona and my friendship out-survived those dates many-fold!]

We also reached the town of Kinsley, KS, the purported "midway" between NY and San Francisco. Would be meaningful if that were our route, but alas, we're going to Boston, so we need to ride a few more days until we're "halfway there!"

The stop at midway did at least give me a "lean" photo for the day and a chance to visit the Sod Farm Museum.

Glad this wasn't my ride across the country!

Great Bend

I’m starting to get the feel for “exploring” the larger of these "small towns" (in quotations,  because I'm not sure that's quite the right description, but it's all I have). Once you pass the above-mentioned grain silo and water tower, then you start to see local services -- not cafes or boutiques, but farm equipment service centers, feed stores, and increasingly mega churches housed in the likes of a former superstore. If you push past the initial array of fast food and hotel chains (with which I'm becoming oh too familiar!) you may find a main street or a town square. 

Today, thanks to Todd, our resident brewery expert, I found myself at Dry Lake Brewing on Main Street, Great Bend, by the town square. I stopped by the hotel, exchanged my bike shorts and shoes and for "street clothes" (with a bit of baby powder to counteract the ride effects!) and headed to "town." Enjoyed the local brew and a quesadilla from the food truck outside as the perfect end to today's ride. 

After a proper "clean up" and clothes washing (my least favorite part of the day), I headed across the parking lot from the hotel to the Page Bar and Grill, where I settled in at the bar. I had expected others from the group might be here, but apparently they found other options more appealing. This gave me the opportunity to talk to Valencia (see Employee(s) of the Day), soak up some local flavor, and even (for better or worse) sample Kansas wine (let's just say I didn't join any local wine clubs--but I was happy to support the local economy and a winery housed at a ranch with a therapeutic riding program that helps employ those with developmental disabilities).

Soundtrack of the Day

The Route Rap Rappers outdid themselves today (though it is a very low bar). We adapted a verse of "Blowin' in the Wind" as follows:

How many days does it take till we bike, 

Across the state of Kansas?

And how many flats will the riders get,

Before we reach St. Joseph's (MO)?

The answer my friend, is blowin' in the wind,

The answer is blowin' in the wind.

[Repeat Chorus, but even louder!]

Employee(s) of the Day

Jessica

My day started (literally, when I was getting my 5 a.m. coffee from the fancy espresso machine in the lobby) with a great chat with Jessica, who had been on duty at the front desk all night. She had heard about the group of bikers staying at the hotel and our journey and told me it was motivating her. I shared some thoughts from yesterday's podcasts about starting small, and finding micro and manageable goals. While she wasn't a biker, she was thinking she should make more of an effort to get up and go for a walk each day. As we were talking, she thought it might be even better to walk after her night shift, in the morning, rather than resort to Tylenol PM to go to sleep. She ultimately promised she'd do this on Tuesday (recognizing that Monday wasn't realistic given the holiday weekend!). So Go Jessica! She even came to watch the Route Rap Rappers before she left for the day! (It was a good one -- maybe we really will go viral!)

Valencia

I felt blessed to meet Valencia, a server at Page Bar. She first approached me when I was sampling the various local wines (a Cab, a Zin blend, and a Nebbiolo), and asked why I was swirling the wine in the glasses. As I started to explain, she just got it -- "So you're waking up the wine!" Exactly. She said she could smell the aromas more from across the bar even as I was doing it. I loved her curiosity, and willingness to ask. She had a thirst (no pun intended!) for learning and a heart of gold. 

We began talking not only about my journey but hers. She's originally from Wichita, but moved to Great Bend to get away from negative influences and literally "get clean." She began alcohol abuse treatment and thanks to the support of her church and community, has been clean for 4+ years. (Go Valencia!) I can only imagine how difficult that is and applaud her strength and commitment toward improving her life. She exudes positivity and appreciates her life and her job. She truly is an inspiration!

Valencia and I hugged it out by the end of her shift!

She shared my story with her colleague Daisy, who was also happy to pose with me.

Remembrance

On this tour, it's hard to know what day of the week it is, nonetheless whether there is a holiday we should mark. Fortunately, one of our tour members reminded us that we are about to celebrate Memorial Day weekend. It seems particularly fitting to write about it as I sit here at a local watering hole and have been joined by several self-declared veteran's during the evening. In the words of our tour member (who is himself a distinguished veteran), we should all "take a few moments to acknowledge the holiday -- honoring the men and women in uniform over the past 250 years who served our country with honor and courage and made the ultimate sacrifice. A reminder that freedom is not free." Thank you, David, for the meaningful reminder.