Sunday, June 18, 2023

Day 44: Victor to Syracuse, NY

Today's Ride -- and Happy Father's Day

The Stats

87 miles
3,284 ft. 

Miles Completed: 3,100
Miles to Go: 296
States Visited: 12 of 15
Total Climbed: 97,306 ft.

Highlights: Mostly clear skies, mostly tailwinds, Seneca Lake, I 💓 NY sign, Erie Canal, Seneca Falls (the "real" Bedford Falls from "It's a Wonderful Life"), lots of new friends in Liverpool and Syracuse at The Retreat and Pastabilities (thanks, Harrison, for the great recommendation!)

Challenges: Some sneaky hills at the end of the ride and general fatigue over the last 20 miles or so.

The Ride

The weather cooperated once again, so we started out under sunny skies, cool but not too cold temps, and calm winds (which ultimately became tailwinds, mostly, when they kicked up). We crossed some babbling brooks (maybe they were streams, or even rivers, but they babbled, not roared) and passed through a combination of farmland (yes, there are still farms here!), small villages, and residential areas. 

All was rolling along well until my front tire got soft and started oozing suds from the air valve. Because of all the road issues from the other day, rather than just change the tube, I waited for the van so I could swap out to a new tire -- thanks Tom!
Tom to the rescue!

It was a beautiful ride as we continued on mostly country roads, through cool little towns, until the first SAG at Seneca Lake. Given the tire delay, I was DFL (dead you know what last) into SAG, but didn't really care. I rode out to the pier, chatted with some folks there, and then spied the I 💓 NY sign, where I rode "off route" for a bit to get a second lean pic of the day. 



The stretch after the SAG was less compelling, as much of it was along a busier roadway with lots of traffic, but ultimately turning off to a more rural route. 

By second SAG, I was feeling fatigued, trying to ward it off with some ice cream and a grilled cheese sandwich from a local shop. Not sure how much it helped!

On the next stretch, we passed through Seneca Falls, home of the Seneca Falls Convention in 1848, which launched the women's suffrage movement. There was tons of history in this area which I feel we just skirted -- as I have commented before this isn't the trip for traditional sightseeing stops.

Seneca Falls is also the supposed home of the "real" Bedford Falls on "It's a Wonderful Life (a fav movie of our family and my dad in particular). There's even an It's a Wonderful Life Museum, but sadly it was closed on Sunday! Despite this, just another example of how my parents, and their profound influence on my life, have been with me this entire trip. 


We stopped briefly at Erie Canal State Park. Some have asked if we're cycling the Erie Canal Trailway, a trail that runs from Buffalo to Albany. While we are roughly following that route and are riding parallel to the trail (and I-90), we're riding on public roads, as only portions of the trail are paved, and much of it is on gravel. (I do seem to recall other XC tour companies using the trail for this section, perhaps even the gravel portions?)

Today's Random Photos

After following all these train lines, it now makes sense
 that these are the Lehigh Valley Railway!


Chris always likes to practice for the morning song!

I forgot Deena and I had been here way back 
on those college tour days!


Couldn't stop singing the Abba song once I saw this!

Lots of New Syracuse Friends

Even with my flat and generally sluggish pace today, I still got "within beer range" of the hotel (less than 3 miles!) before 2:30. Peter found what turned out to be the perfect outdoor and hopping local spot, The Retreat, in the Village of Liverpool just over a mile away. We had a few beers and compared tan lines.

Tan line competition

While he was changing his flat tire (which he sadly got in the parking lot of the bar!), I started to make friends. Kevin and Gregg were both very interested in our trip, and genuinely seemed impressed by the undertaking. 
Gregg, Kevin, and me
Dan from Camillus (on the other side of the lake) was providing suggestions and trying to help Peter fix his flat as we were all struggling to figure out the source of the puncture.
Me and Dan

And as I was leaving, Joe Butcher, a spry 91-year-old who used to race both motorcycles and bikes, asked if he could pick up my bike to see how heavy it was. We got to chatting and shared mutual inspiration from one another. We hugged it out and had a moment, but I guess you just had to be there. 
Me and Joe Butcher

For dinner, at the "strong suggestion" of Harrison (Alana's boyfriend who is from Syracuse), I skipped the catered meal (which I heard was better than most!) and Ubered to Pastabilities, a downtown Syracuse culinary institution. Much good food and many more friends to be made. Craig (or Gregg? it was a bit loud), works as a Lazy-Boy store manager, and sadly has a father who suffers from Parkinson's. We shared an empathetic moment of knowing how much the disease sucks as he left. 

Joe (yes, another Joe) splits his time between Scottsdale, AZ, and Syracuse in the summers, where he can make too much money building pools to pass up the opportunity (plus he gets to escape the AZ heat and spend time with his mom!). And Steve and I just chatted about life after the others left. All were long-time fans of the restaurant, and it was definitely the place to be, so thank you Harrison! (I filled up so much on my most delicious burrata salad that I struggled to eat much more, but managed some tasty bites!)
Me, Steve, and Joe
Me and my youknowwhat...(short day tomorrow!)

My yummy burrata salad which I couldn't stop eating!

Employees of the Day

At Pastabilities, I was greeted by Zakiyra (sp?), who I had spoken to on the phone (I called in advance knowing it was likely to be busy because of Father's Day). She greeted me like an old friend, genuinely excited that there was plenty space at the bar when I arrived, which was what I had inquired about. What a great first impression...

Then there was Caleb, who was a master behind the bar -- not just with drinks, but was so knowledgeable and passionate about the food, the menu, and the mission of the place. Steve thinks he may be the grandson of the owner, but whoever he is, he is a consummate professional! So thank you to you both for helping make my evening a great one.   

Me and Caleb at Pastabilities
Zakiyra greeted me like an old friend

Shout Out to the Dads!

While this is (atypically) being published a day late, I must give a shout out to all the fathers, but a few in particular. 

Of course, there is my dad, aka PopPop, who I've written much and thought even more about on this journey. We may have butted heads at time (for example, he never liked it when I shopped at church bazaars for used clothes during college -- he used to sing clown music to mock me), he always had my best interests at heart, and would've done anything for me. He was my "pal" during early childhood years, provided sage advice throughout my life (whether or not I listened to him), was an amazing grandpa (PopPop) to our girls, and the love my mother's life from the time she met him at the age of 14. His decline with Parkinson's was so sad to watch, and for several years that was all I could remember. But finally, with the passage of time, I'm remembering the vibrant, funny, loving man that he was, when he was himself. I miss you, daddy.

And then there's Ben. At the risk of being a bit corny, I couldn't have wished for a better father for our girls (I hope they would agree!). He, too, only wants the best for them, and has been my partner in parenting every step of the way. He even has excelled at dog parenting to Bondi, for whom he is the primary caretaker. I couldn't have done this trip without your love and support, so Happy Father's Day, and Thank YOU!!!!!!

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